Those diodes have life experience now
its all part of the journey. I can laugh about it now but i couldnât at the time. I used a wrong steer switch i think and it back fed some current. Luckily no major components were damaged and i just swapped it all to another board
Where should i add some jumpers? I am not really sure from the picture
If you mean pins 24V or 12V, there are soldered pins on 24V
And I haven´t done the freewheel mod so the ma and mb buttons should work
Thanks for answering so fast
do you have some markings or labels of the ones you used?
Zoom in on my previous picture with the green jumpers and youâll see.
Ive got exactly the same board the working one is in the tractor though
You can open this config page:
To have the motor to move you must have the compas green (purple in my picture)
If you check the PWM value (in the red rectangle) it should be greater than 0 if autosteer is active.
If there is a value > 0 and the motor is not moving, most likely you have a hardware problem.
It should, check PWM there too:
I guess tractor at bottom left must be green
Thanks, I will try that and let you know
Hey,
I have tried the jumpers and the motor finally works. (Thanks for solving this problem)
But at the same time it started to burn off MB connectors on cytron.
First time it melted the female headers on pcb and damaged a bit of the cytron pins, i thought it was bcs of the motor backfeeding current when turning the steering wheel with autosteer turned off (i didn´t put the relay for freewheel mod at the time)
After that I add the relay and tried to save the cytron by using wires and it worked (for 3 min.) and then it started to burn the cables connected to MB pins on cytron
If anybody has some idea why it might be doing that, please let me know.
Before with pins:
after with cables:
That shouldnât happen even if you use it without the freewheel mod. Iâve run it for days without any freewheel mod.
A few thoughts. Do you have a fuse inline somewhere that isnât blowing? Thatâs a lot of current to melt those wires. It should blow the fuse.
Is there any load on the motor when this happens? If I hit the test buttons on the cytron it will blow my fuse when the motor is hooked to the steering wheel. When it is run buy agopengps it is fine though.
It happened when the motor was turning the steering wheel, so it was under some force
Using the buttons on the cytron or the software?
The software, it was going along ab line
What mm2 are your wires ? good is 1.5mm2 or more, Is there fuse before power comes to cytron? Your fuse should always be weaker then your weakest (thinnest) wire max amp load so you dont get this scenario. Replace cytron if that solves it then discard old one.
The problem is not with wires bcs i put them there after it melted the original female headers on pcb for connecting the cytron. I have fuse on wires from the 12v to 24v convertor going to the pcb
Do you have some way of telling how many amps your motor is pulling? Maybe even as simple as trying smaller fuses.
Then you got short somewhere. Space between cytron traces is small its easy to add too much solder and bridge. What happens without wires just press buttons on cytron for same amount of time to simulate motor. Keep 24v going in. Also should be possible to test for continuity via multimeter.
What motor do you have? Phidgets 3269 is 2.2 A so your fuse should be 3 to 5A.
I have 3269 Phidgets motor, so i will try to look at the board for shorted circut. It´s probably it, bcs i can´t think of anything else. Or maybe bad connections on cytron from factory?
Anyway I don´t have it with me right now so I will have to try it later.
Either way proper fuse size is important, fuse should always blow first. Not melt your headers or wires, its better to go thru fuse then tractor.
Yeah, I definitely agree