not sure if using the 24V input is the solution for the amps needed for a motor: if you go with the standard PCB configuration, you get inner copper weight of only 0.5 oz. the traces up to the cytron (including the 24V ones) are only 1.75mm wide. if you have a current of 3A – which I actually measured while my phidgets motor applied some force on the wheel – you get a temperature rise of 100°C. maybe it might work in the short term but longterm the board will probably suffer.
here’s a sketch of how I plan to connect the phidgets on 24V without having to use any of the pcb traces for motor current (except for GND). will test it next weekend and follow up if someone else is interested.
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Exactly what I was thinking of last night having read your post about the high temperatures the board may encounter.
The number 7 ‘Lock’ pin, what is that originally intended for?
I would imagine a high proportion of users will be using a Phidgets or similar 24V motor, seems a shame not to of given first provision to this setup.
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We don’t know how many use hydraulic, but for us lock is needed there. Earlier lock was also used to drive relay that cut off connections to phidget to prevent brake.
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instead of the LOCK pin another option is to use the WAS_L pin (pin number 3) to connect 24V to. important is that the pin used is in the top row. otherwise it might touch other pins after bending and cause a short circuit.
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Is the general consensus that the PCB traces should be good enough for 24V Phidgets motors? Any thoughts on what Ampseal pin we should/could use for 24V in? It seems unfortunate to have to run a separate wire in for 24V in. I’m thinking it would be nice if most of us could use the same pin so that the next gen PCBs match that pinout. Maybe one of the extra analog inputs as it’s pretty easy to cut the PCB trace and solder a wire on. I don’t want to use the LOCK output as some motor guys will use it for external relay. WAS-L is also used by some people and one of the extra GNDs is too hard to modify except for the WAS GND but I think it would be nice to keep that dedicated for the WAS.
Thoughts?
@Jhmach mentioned that when using the Deutsch, there are no extra grounds and we shouldn’t need the two extra grounds. Then I propose we use the WAS GND pin for 24V in for two reasons, it’s easy to bend up pre-soldering or cut after soldering to attach a wire to the 24V In and secondly it’s then also ready for a thick trace to the Cytron in the next version of PCB (using one of the extra analog inputs means routing a big trace through other pads).
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How thick are the traces on the underside of the cytron at the power terminals? Might be a hint how big they need to be.
Is somebody using the C1 GNSS OEM Bynav on a standard Deutsch/Ampseal board?
Should this board work like Panda when it is just powered with usb? I flashed teensy with firmware and board is lit up, also ethernet port but Agopengps doesn’t regognize it.
New flash on the Teensy?
Did you send the IP?
Make sure it is correct in the bar above send, and send it
If powered from PC/laptop usb- Beware of what the max output on usb ports are!
You could add another usb cable to power the F9P.
I got nothing out of mine until I fed it a 12V power source
3 regulators? I see tje k7803 and k7805 where i miss?
So problem with this was that some of the Ublox connectors weren’t connecting. There is so long connector base that I had to sandpaper them to get pins touching. Now I got Agopengps regognizing this but now I don’t have any IMU reading. It just shows 0.
12V connected? As in my thread, I got same until 12V.
I don’t have 12v connected yet. On my Panda board it works ok with same components but I guess I will have to power 12v to see.
Same - with my panda, I had zero components on the board except Teensy, BNO and F9P and it worked fine over USB. No chance with new Micro tho.
Top is MC7805 which powers the ADS1115 circuit for wheel angle sensor
Next down is K7805 which powers the Teensy
Bottom is the K7803 which powers the Micros
The micro will not power through USB, it must have the 12v input power to energize the K7803.
After you have the Micro powered, then connect the USB cable. If you don’t get a port, you may need to reflow the solder on the 5 pins under the middle of the USB port. JLC has had some trouble getting those soldered completely.
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