I think something is wrong on the board. I got 12v on pin 1 simpleRTK2B Micro. It was really getting hot
Looking at print i have no idea what could be wrong. Any one have idea? I have the micro all in one AMP board.
Lookslike i have a faulty K7803. On the 3,3v output i have 12V
Before mounting Teensy, or Micros, make sure to test the power at the headers to be sure voltage is correct.
Test from circled pin to ground
On all boards.
Just good insurance since a micro costs more than the rest of the components combined.
not sure if using the 24V input is the solution for the amps needed for a motor: if you go with the standard PCB configuration, you get inner copper weight of only 0.5 oz. the traces up to the cytron (including the 24V ones) are only 1.75mm wide. if you have a current of 3A – which I actually measured while my phidgets motor applied some force on the wheel – you get a temperature rise of 100°C. maybe it might work in the short term but longterm the board will probably suffer.
here’s a sketch of how I plan to connect the phidgets on 24V without having to use any of the pcb traces for motor current (except for GND). will test it next weekend and follow up if someone else is interested.
instead of the LOCK pin another option is to use the WAS_L pin (pin number 3) to connect 24V to. important is that the pin used is in the top row. otherwise it might touch other pins after bending and cause a short circuit.
Is the general consensus that the PCB traces should be good enough for 24V Phidgets motors? Any thoughts on what Ampseal pin we should/could use for 24V in? It seems unfortunate to have to run a separate wire in for 24V in. I’m thinking it would be nice if most of us could use the same pin so that the next gen PCBs match that pinout. Maybe one of the extra analog inputs as it’s pretty easy to cut the PCB trace and solder a wire on. I don’t want to use the LOCK output as some motor guys will use it for external relay. WAS-L is also used by some people and one of the extra GNDs is too hard to modify except for the WAS GND but I think it would be nice to keep that dedicated for the WAS.
@Jhmach mentioned that when using the Deutsch, there are no extra grounds and we shouldn’t need the two extra grounds. Then I propose we use the WAS GND pin for 24V in for two reasons, it’s easy to bend up pre-soldering or cut after soldering to attach a wire to the 24V In and secondly it’s then also ready for a thick trace to the Cytron in the next version of PCB (using one of the extra analog inputs means routing a big trace through other pads).
So problem with this was that some of the Ublox connectors weren’t connecting. There is so long connector base that I had to sandpaper them to get pins touching. Now I got Agopengps regognizing this but now I don’t have any IMU reading. It just shows 0.