All in One PCB

Thank you, this was exactly the kind of answer I was expecting. I intentionally didn´t state my specs to have a more universal answer and I don´t exactly know the future specs as we are changing our tractors soon. What I know of is that I will be using phidgets with 3d printed holder, cytron mod, and the automatic switch of mod which code I do not remember atm and teensy ethernet is like ly be needed too. This kind of extra explanation for all those parts in the full list would most likely be much appreciated for those after me who face the same kind of uncertainties.

Teensy Ethernet is standard on the All in One so is by default.

The parts all have part numbers which a quick google will bring up the spec sheet.

If you open the schematic file in EasyEDA you can click on the parts to give part number and spec, it also has the part number for the THT substitutes as well (although I did notice for example for the C24 and C25 this was quite a lower spec than the SMD, I think it was only 16V in that instance).

So in your example above, its just two capacitors, the ones I linked are fine, a diode (will find you a part shortly) and some 2.54mm female headers.
U23 is a screw terminal, in many instances its perhaps more robust to solder cables in the holes instead, you will need this for the 24V in for the Phidgets motor.

This is the Ampseal socket you need:

also keep in mind that having a 25V 1000uF capacitor from Toshiba or a 30V 1000uF capacitor from Panasonic won’t make a big difference in our case.
Having the ChingLin or LingChin headers won’t be either. You can easily find replacements. (And it’s much easier to spend an extra hour finding the right part there then spending an extra hour ordering the right part then doing the soldering.)

So connectors, capacitors, resistors are pretty easy to find replacement. As there are many companies producing them.

With that being said for the octocouplers it’s a lot harder.

These are the ones I selected. The WAS + motor + Dual GPS all seems to be working fine on my board. (You can find picture of it above in this thread.)
unselected_parts.xlsx (4.9 KB)
bom.xlsx (10.5 KB)

With that being said treat this file as anything you download from the internet. (I’d not mind someone to confirm if these were good choices as replacements.)

CNY172M I still had to order separately (maybe there’s a replacement for that too)
I did check the BOM missing and looked up all those (as my board seems to be in real good shape)
These are the things you could consider adding but I think most of us will not need these:

U14 → TLC081IP → DIP-8_L10.1-W6.3-P2.54-LS7.6-BL Danfoss only
U901 → MP1584EN → MP1584EN ByNav only

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Alright, I trid now with EasyEDA and it opens the micro files in Support/easyeda, but there is no .json formatted files for the standard board in the folders. I probably should have said I am using the standard board… Google didn´t give me much about some of those components, but you did much better :wink: Thanks again!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wZPJ1Bc-r3yLj9BFOFB5pJAMixGKVqoV?usp=share_link

What are the current limitations for the lock port used for driving 6/2 valve? Is it possible to supply steady 3,5 Amps under working enviroment?

For to be safe i use relay to take care of those valves. And with lock i control relay

I’m interrested in a plain Micro PCB for soldering a through hole variant. If anybody has one left (EU-Region) please write me a private message.

Hello,

I intend to place a order to JLBPCB for the Micro V3.0 and I got few questions :

1/ Anyone placed an order for assembly already ?
2/ To get a functional board, what are the components to be soldered to the bottom ?
3/ Shall I order only assembly for top ?
4/ Why the silkscreen top&bottom does not show the prefix to identify the components ?

Thanks.

2/ No components need to be soldered to the bottom.
3/ Order assemble only for top.

The codes R45 and so on relate to the component. You can see the descriotion of that component in the BOM. There is not near enough real estate on the board for full descriptions.

Hello. Explain how the 3 LEDs should work. First, the one that controls the Internet connection on my board glows green when there is a connection. When I unplug the cable, red. As for the rest, I can’t figure it out. They glow constantly when I supply power to the board. Whether red or green. I changed the polarity, only the color of the glow changed. The board is fully working, there is a RTK. On the board, the red LED near the micro, when you just turn it on, glows constantly. Then it starts flashing and when the rtk appears, it goes out. And with these two, I can’t understand how they should work. Firmware latest 5.7.1

RTK fix = nearby LED off.

Near the micro LED works, everything is fine, but 2 of the three I don’t understand how they should work.

LED closest to board edge = Power on (Red)-------Ethernet Active (Green)

LED in the middle = GPS ON, NO RTK (Red)------GPS ON, RTK ON (Green)

LED Furthest from board edge = Steer Module connected and enabled, steer switch off (Red)------Autosteer connected and enabled (Green)

Thank you. Then another question. All three of them are wired in the same way according to the arrangement of the red-green pins.

The Internet LED is working properly. And here is the middle one, where the state of the gps and the rtk should be lit, regardless of whether there are gps and rtk. I turn on the food and the program. RTK appeared in the program, but the LED was still lit before the appearance of RTK. His state does not change. As I understand it, when there is no gps, it should be red. Then, when gps and rtk appears, it should be green. The same goes for the third LED. Yes, I forgot to mention. I use a single GPS and IMU.

Hi,

I have placed order to JLBPCB and starting to order missing parts from other sources. I found all the others except JP1, JP2 SPARKFUN-JUMPERS_JUMPER-SMT_2_NC_PASTE_NO-SILK, has anybody link to this or other help?

Thanks

Any 2.54mm female jumper, like this:

Or…

I continue to study LED signaling. The middle LED, which is red when I turn off the IMU, starts blinking. But the third one is constantly red when I activate the autopilot with the button. Or does it work in some other way.