All in One PCB

for me but I could be wrong because I am not an expert in electronic diagrams.
I have the impression that the +15V is “generated” after the smoothing by the two capacitors C3 and C24.

it would indeed be interesting if @Jhmach explained the routing of the high power on the PCB.

if I take my assembly as an example, just the 6/2 valve consumes about 36W which is about 3A on 12V on the HSP0115 alone.

the problem of recovering one of the GND pins on the Ampseal socket is that it seems to me that they are directly connected to the ground plane of the PCB, which involves cutting and bending the leg of the connector rather than soldering it.

Why would you charge your tablet through the PCB??
In my experience Panasonic tablets are happy to be powered directly by tractor power. (14.5V with alternator running)

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How many of the missing parts are important?

I’m not using Danfoss or wanting CAN bus.

You are missing a few headers, the 1000uF capacitors, and cny172(speed pulse output)
All of these can be added as though hole components and soldered yourself.

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Don’t power your tablet through the pcb. Its is not designed with tablet charging in mind. Better to pigtail off of the input power.

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I still need to use separate step up converter to get 24v to motor right?

Yes. You do

OK, I will try as @SjaakA suggests to connect it directly. Currently I have a converter but it heats up a lot and has even melted at the 12v in connection

Question concerning the CAN bus part.

Why put two chips for two different bus?

Richard added the can with 2 bus for vehicle and machine control, I believe

Ok good,

I was just thinking about integrating the can bus part on the card to be able to even if my tractors are not pre-equipped and can bus.

The idea being to be able to remote and leave the section control part on the treatment devices as close as possible to the solenoid valves to limit the connections in the cabin.

Really good job from yours designing this AIO PCB…!!

What are the dimensions of the boards?

Send the gerber of the one you are interested in on the jlcpcb site and once loaded you have the dimensions that are displayed.

I am completely new to 3d printing and I am now looking for somewhere to print these. There are some sites but does someone have recommendations where to print these in Europe?

And also what material/finishing should I use? Prices seem to jump like crazy between finishes and materials.

We are all new the first time, it is scary yes, but it is not difficult. With four tips you can do many things with a 3D printer.
I have never used printing services, when I saw the prices it was clear to me that I had to buy a 3D printer, and then YouTube is your best friend.

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Prices in the UK for 3D printing are very expensive, buy your own printer will pay for itself very quickly.

Also very slow, takes typically 10 days turnaround.

I found a site that seems reasonably priced, little over 100€ for 2 cases.

RapAdd MFG

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For C24,C25 on the Standard Deutsch board it’s not possible to use through hole parts I guess…?

[Edit: there seem to be holes to solder on the backside of the board:
image
]

Special Standard Box


StandardSpecialV2.zip (1,3 MB)

3 Likes

Give craftcloud3d.com a look. I just had them print parts for me here in the US. They are based in Germany I think. Kind of a clearing house for folks with printers.

surfacescan.co.uk was quoting me about £80 for five cases, cheapest I could find