All in One PCB

voltage from the angle sensor comes to the ads1115.
Would it be the ads that would have a pb?

Good place to start.
Did you order the surface mounted, pre assembled board?
Make sure you dont put a modular ads1115 on as well, as it is already on there.
Someone put an ads on a pre assembled board the other day and had nothing at agio. Removed the modular one and all was well.

It’s a smd bord and I don’t put a modular ADS1115. I use an Honeywell RTY
I tested with another Teensy and an other bord and I have the same problem.
do you have any idea

What colour is the autosteer icon on aog screen?

The autosteer icon is purple

I am at phone, but read in manual what that means (some of the last pages)
Then check you have set switch correct in AOG
None, button, switch- according to what you use.

Soldering the ethernet header pins onto the Teensy needs a steady hand!

My first board ready to go :neutral_face:

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ADS in this picture place it on PCB micro version yes or no? Bit confused

yes, can be if the ADS1115 chip is not soldered on the PCB

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Thank you

image
Make sure the ads is not there. Then you could add the modular one.

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Purple generally means that the 5v circuit is live, but there is no 12v.

Just to check then, I don’t need to plug in the ADS as it’s already on-board, aye? I’m not missing any components (stares at all those empty holes)? :smiley:

The empty holes are what are called “vias” (in French anyway), they are used to pass a track from one to the other of the layers of the pcb.

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Some of the empty holes are for the option of using through hole components instead of surface mount. Yours looks like mine. As long as you have working voltage regulators installed it should be good.

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Yes, all of the needed components for the ADS are on your board.

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Are there any hammond cases availiable, which fits the boards?

Micro PCB
part# 1455T2201 aluminum ends
part# 1455T2202 plastic ends (maybe not strong enough and not recommend if cutting box in half)
220 x 165 x 52 mm
This one can get cut in half and used for two PCBs but it looks to me like there’s pretty much no extra length for blade thickness.

edit If you use the plastic bezels with the alum end plates then the box is long to use a 1/8" blade to cut the box in half for two PCBs with a sliver left over. The cut boxes need to be 107 or 107.5mm in length so that the opposite end plate can support the PCB when plugging in the main connectors. (tested by Jake Hunter)

They also make a shorter ones (110mm & 160mm).


Standard PCB
part# 1455Q2201
220 x 125 x 52 mm

Mouser seems cheaper then Digikey. The boxes come with two blank end plates. If you are cutting it in half to make two then you probably should buy the extra end plates. Alum plates are sold in 10 packs and plastic in 2 or 10.

Here’s the list of options at Hammond. Search this page for the either 1455T or 1455Q and you’ll see all the options for that width. The part number is 1455T or 1455Q, then the length options (220, 160, 110) and then the end plate material option (1 - Alum, 2 - Plastic) followed by color codes (blank for clear/grey alum, BK, BU, RD).

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Hello, I have to finalize the order of the components that I will be missing from digikey and I am a little lost in the different references. As I don’t want to be wrong, can you confirm that it’s the right ones?

So for the ampseal 23 to be welded, it is this reference that is needed.?

For the male part there are several references and I don’t see any differences on the product page
 :roll_eyes::roll_eyes:
It’s just the color that changes.?
The cheapest can do.?

Are these the correct contacts for the socket?

For the cny172M of the speed pulse output this reference is good.?

Sorry for the “dumb” questions.

Question,

What is the difference between +12V-board pin 20 on micro Amp and +12V-in pin 22 ?