Getting ready to order parts

I am new to all of this, so first off thanks for all the help and time you all have put into building AOG!
I have spent days reading and trying to understand the basics of AOG and I think I’m gaining! I want to put autosteer in two tractors this winter (identical systems) but have a few questions to start. I should add I live in Colorado (USA) in the mountains so there are some line of sight issues between fields. This has me questioning the effectiveness of RTK base station? Possibly NTRIP?

  1. What would be the best PCB to start for only autosteer? I see the PCB v2 is the most popular, but I am curious if there is any benefit to going with the AIO (all in one) board? To my understanding the all in one has the IMU sensor built in? Is there any other components built in that will simplify/cleanup overall install?

2)Do I need to look into NTRIP being I have geography blocking line of sight between fields? If so would the AIO be better?

3)Steering motor… I am torn between the KEYA motor and the Phidgets 3269-3.

*Other Components I plan to use are FZ-G1 tablet, Ethernet connections, delphi ER10014 or Land Rover RQH100030 WAS, Emlid M2 for RTK base, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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  1. You should definitely go for an AIO board. They are the most up to date and have many more features than the V2. I believe a V4.4 has been released or will be released soon. The IMU is not built into the board. You still need a few components to add such as a teensy 4.1, Cytron(if you use phidgets), BNO085(IMU), and F9P(micro or standard dependant on PCB choice).

  2. The XBee radios are only line of sight. So NTRIP is probably best if you have consistent cell coverage.

  3. The difference between the Phidgets and Keya is mostly personal preference. The Phidgets aren’t quite as clean of an install but they are cheap. And the Keyas are quite expensive but they look to make a clean install.

Do you have quality cell signal at all times? And have you checked where the closest NTRIP corrections would come from?

  1. Build the latest version AIO. If you’ve found that the v2 is more popular, it’s probably because you’ve been reading old posts and the AIO hasn’t been out as long.

  2. If your geography blocks line of sight then radio RTK won’t work well and you should look either into NTRIP or a portable base station. There is no difference between boards in this regard.

  3. Don’t underestimate the time it takes to build DIY motor mount brackets. I’d do the Keya just for that reason. I’m not sure the v2 supports the Keya.

V2 board will work with Keya (same code), plus V2 has an extra CANBUS (handy if you want to use an existing button on the tractor that sends its status over CANBUS)

I think we’re getting mixed up.

PCB v2 is Brian’s old Arduino Nano board.

All In One V2.X has canbus and is able to support Keya.


Oops, sorry yeah - I forgot PCBv2 even exists (despite having a pile of them here :smiley: )

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Thanks for the help everyone, definitely AIO board, so that is settled. Is there anywhere that has assembled AIO boards? I found @Guy1000’s store and should have ordered one from him when they were available but I didn’t feel quite confident that I knew what I needed. Or better yet when do you think you will have more available @Guy1000?
Cell coverage is good, no dead spots… I am not sure I understand the portable base station? Is it repeatable when you return to the field, since the base is probably not in the same exact location as previous visits to the field.
@Hman I looked this morning when I had a minute I tried to look into coverage and I dont know what maps you refer to but I found a website called point one and it showed me in a small area that doesnt appear to have coverage… Olathe, Colorado

For a portable base you either live with the repeatability not being perfect every time you move the base, or you build a reference point so that the base can return to the same point each visit.

When antennas have threads it’s 5/8”-11. A bolt welded to a gate post, or an anchor bolt in a big rock, or just pound in a little reference stake need or your tripod, lots of options.

I’m back at it, last couple days have been busy… Anyhow I have decided Keya motor but I was not 100% clear on voltage, keya says 12volt or 24 volt? I know I read 24V is better with the phidgets but where are things at with keya? I am assuming 12 so I wont need to worry about a step up converter in my system?
I found the link to order the Keya motor in @andyinv post Keya CANBUS motor - great success, many happy etc
PCB… see if I understand this correctly. For an AIO board I have the option of F9P std or micro and since I do not have a F9P currently I should go with the micro because it is the latest version and smaller footprint, otherwise they are identical. Next the IMU is not “built into the board” as I thought earlier but it plugs into the board in the form of BNO085 and requires no other external sensor or wiring? Last, I believe the KEYA motor has a driver built in so I do not need a motor driver?

The Keya is controlled via can bus, I run mine on power straight from the 12v battery (through a fuse and power switch to disable it down the road).

The Keya uses 12v, you don’t need a 24v converter.

The F9P standard vs micro is your decision, but I would definitely go with micro.

The BNO085 IMU plugs into the IMU board and does not require any other wiring.

The Keya has its own motor controller, you don’t need a cytron or other motor driver.

When ordering the PCB are there any components I should deselect to use the KEYA or should I go with the standard BOM? I had just about placed my order with JLCPCB and the error message pops up so i had to go back searching to see what was going on… I found out it was just new website configuration.

JLC is short only one part… ZMM3V3-M (C8056)
Is there any substitute for this?

I got a start on ordering, got the PCB figured out… also teensy, IMU, F9P, and now I’m onto the motor. I was hoping someone knew the cost of the Keya? I looked at the link on the Keya motor thread closer and the price was $530 + $143 shipping. I am fine with that but was reading on the original Keya build thread, there was a bunch of extra hidden cost accumulation from tax and customs fees? @Bestgart said $640 + $760 fees? Does anyone have any information on that? I found this here Hi does any one has experience with integrating the keya motor

Türkiye entry is related to customs clearance. I bought two engines. On the first engine, my country charged too much customs duty. I paid 745 dollars in customs duty. When I bought the second engine. We also learned how to pay the invoice. The tax was very low at $80.

I got all my parts in! So that’s exciting and seems the PCB is assembled correctly, checked voltage with PCBV4.1 - build and test
Installed teensy had to solder the headers on to the teensy and the BNO085 but that was it. Note when ordering the teensy make sure to order the 2.0mm 3x2 tall header socket from PJRC for the Ethernet connection I did not do this and was short parts. F9P had pins soldered already.
I have a question regarding initial setup, I do not have a RTK source yet so can I get this working without RTK for now to test and tune? I am hoping just satellite corrections until I get my RTK? I am not able to get a GPS fix currently and I am not sure if that is because I have no RTK or something else? I flashed the teensy with Keya firmware but no movement at the motor, I am thinking this is due to no gps signal? I have not flashed the F9P and was not sure if I needed to? Lots of questions and thanks for all the help so far I know I couldn’t do this without all your support!

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