On the t6 175 we put the proximity switch by the brake pedals, as panic button. This tractor also have pressure switch to turn off autosteer when steering wheel is used manually.
Sorry for the late reply.
I don’t think our problems are the same. In my case there was a soldering issue with the optocoupler for remote sensor. I solved it by removing one of the pins on the optocoupler chip.
1 Like
I’m using mine without BNO085, but with Dual GPS instead.
Hello all. I’m about to build my first kit 
. PCB arrived, parts are coming from Digikey. CMPS14 and Arduino to be ordered. Maybe it’s possible to order this nano ( Arduino Nano 33 BLE with headers — Arduino Official Store ) instead of standar Arduino nano? Will standart code work? Possible to use onboard embedded 9 axis inertial sensor? Would be complicated to make it work?
I saw the Nano BLE mentioned in previous post but the links dont seem to work anymore MMA 8452 filtering - #54 by Larsvest
Welcome to the forum.
It is because the link is made before discourse moved to a new platform, over a year ago. I could probably renew the link, but info is outdated.
Mma is not used anymore.
Use bno085 or cmps 14
Today go the teensy way.
Kaupoi can be used together with a teensy panda board
Search for the word panda with the magnifying glass at top right.
One is this Aio 5.6 - #4 by m_elias
1 Like
I have ordered everything I need to make Kaupoimod PCB, but I haven’t soldered anything on the board yet. Should I change arduino to teensy? What are the advantages and does it work with normal Kaupoi board?
To use the kaupoimod steering PCB with the Teensy (PANDA gps sync) requires an adapter shield. The only one I currently know of is by @Pat. It plugs into the Nano socket and allows you to add a simplertk2b with teensy for doing the Panda sync and auto-steer. Otherwise you can still use the kaupoimod with nano as is for auto steering and add a separate standalone Teensy/simplertk2b PCB for panda.
1 Like
Does anyone have picture of this PCB soldered with CMPS14? It isn’t used on example pictures. Also regarding placement when everything is ready, is CMPS14 required to be in certain position in the cab or can it calibrate itself?
Going to try my first ever soldering project this week.
I think the cmps needs it’s pins moved to the other side to work with this PCB. Unfortunately I ruined mine trying to do that.
So to remove pins and solder them back to other side? Why do you need to do that, can’t you just flip it to other side of the PCB?
You probably could mount it to the back side of the PCB
What kind of button can I use here? I didn’t understand very well.
You can choose a simple on/off button or even on/off with light.
I have now assembled PCB and it seems to be working! I am still waiting for drive motor but IMU and WAS are showing. How do you guys have attached mini usb on the arduino? I installed this PCB to aluminum box that was in the parts list and I can’t fit USB, connector is too long and it hits the wall.
I guess I will have to order one, I managed to fit normal one by destroying the plastics around it but it isn’t completely secure fit…
My box is bit different. I also had to change Cytrons place to fit PCB in heightwise, CMPS14 is under the board so Cytron didn’t have space to be so high up.
1 Like
Looks good. I had the same problem with the cytron not fitting in the Hammond enclosure. I turned the cytron upside down and added some short hex standoffs on top of the existing ones. I also attached the CMPS via screw connectors and a short length of cable into an small external alloy enclosure (faraday cage) as I read several post reporting emf interference was making it unreliable. Limited work done, but seems to work well. 
we want photo
Sure, bit busy now, will post one tomorrow night.