Case IH Puma 230, autosteer ready

Finally have some time to share this project.

Basic idea was to create as “plug and play” solution as possible for autosteer ready CNH machines.

I tryed to use the original wiring harness as much as possible, and it did work great with the steer valve, WAS and pressure sensor. The autosteer engage valve is a little harder but managed to do a little workaround for that.

setup:
PCB Kaupoi mod V4
F9P
CMPS14
Cytron
Lenovo Miix 510-12ISK

CHEMATICS
Chematic for pcb, contains wiring of WAS, orbitrol pressure valve, steer valves and power supply:

X716 layout:

And here is the location for dump valve wire at different ecu:

THE PCB
So, for PCB I use Kaupoi mod V4. Ordered the boards from jlcpcb(great service!) and parts from digikey and mouser. Found a maching connector (Case IH Puma 230, autosteer ready - #5 by FiveFinnishFarmers) for the assembly, so it fits to the original harness. I had to add lots of wires to this connector, but thankfully there is lot of free pins.
photo of PCB: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Pinout for the connector: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

I ran into two problems with the part list Kaupoi has. First the automotive relay was not available at digikey but I found a different more heat resistant version of the same relay: https://www.digikey.fi/product-detail/fi/panasonic-electric-works/CB1-T-P-12V/255-3517-ND/647003
also the BTS442 wasn’t there, so I ended up buying BTS500551(I don’t recomend this): https://www.digikey.fi/product-detail/fi/infineon-technologies/BTS500551TMBAKSA1/BTS500551TMBAKSA1-ND/2051619
Turned out it activates when pin 3 is connected to ground and the pcb has 5V signal for it… so we decided to do a little transistor magig to invert the signal coming from arduino: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

The little DIY board on top is a safety circuit to trigger the remote control with the pressure sensor in orbitrol. It also has a safety relay in series with the BTS. this relay is activated with the autosteer angage switch at rightrear corner of pumas cab.
Here is a photo of the layout: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Schematic: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
As you can see the steer engage valve(6/2) will be powered only when BTS and relay K1 are powered. K1 gets power from X716 pin3, which comes from that cab safety switch(or does it? more on that later…).
the 5V circuit is for pressure sensing. P is the sensor in orbitrol, R2 is potentiometer for adjustment(2K5 if I remember right), R1 is small resistor for safety and T1 is NPN transitor to trigger remote disengage.

I also did cut the usb cable and soldered the connector pins to get through the same 40 pin connector.
USB: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Air-KzSUvzuikAy9ig6SGXl-qSgg

ASSEMBLY
Here is the PCB assembled in the tractor: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

The steer engage valve wire is in different computer and connector, so I had to “steal” that pin. I found that the same pins as in the 40 pin DRC connector works also in this stolen wire, so I just plugged an extension wire to the original stolen wire and wired that to my PCB.
photo of the connection: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
I bought an assembly tool for DRC pin removal from digikey, I really do recommend this as otherwise pin removal is extremely hard.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/0411-240-2005/6566676

Wiring of the original WAS needed one modification to get it working. The original harness goes from navcontroller(pcb location) to right side of motor cooler where there is a connector that has an end plug on it. Very close this is similar connetror that is connected to different harness, this is the line that goes from orginal WAS to ECU, CNH uses WAS signal with automatic front diff lock. Normally in the factory when autosteer is installed they switch the wire coming from WAS to the other plugged connector at the steer ready harness. From there the signal goes directly to navcontroller(X716) and maybe the navcontroller sends WAS value forwoard via canbus… So I had to make a litle Y-devider for WAS wire to get the signal to go both ways, to steer ready harness and to ECU for diff lock. The connectors are once again pain to find and it turned out to be an old ford connector. I found set of these connectors: Case IH Puma 230, autosteer ready - #30 by FiveFinnishFarmers
I powered the WAS with pcb trough steer ready harness to get stable signal and jumped only the signal wire to go both ways, so the ECU is never powering the was, it only gets the signal.
Photos: Case IH Puma 230, autosteer ready - #32 by FiveFinnishFarmers

AUTO STEER CONFIGURATION
It turned out to be a tricky valve to find good settings. I did have a lot of “drunken driver” style slow waving from side to side. To me pure pursuit works better. Here is the setting when driven for one season. Maybe a little bit longer look ahead and little less integral would be good change to this setup.
Steer;
WAS Zero: -2.33
Counts per degree: 191
Ackermann: 109
Max steer angle: 15 (with dual tyres)
Valve;
P: 102
Max: 105
Low: 72
Min: 45
Stanley;
Agressiveness 0.5
Overshoot reduction: 1
Integral: 79
Pure Pursuit;
Look ahead: 3.4
Look ahead speed gain: 1.8
Side hill deg per deg of roll: 0.11
Integral: 36

PROBLEMS
There isn’t many problems that occurred during installation. In fact, the assembly did go almost exactly like I planned it. Only thing that surprised me was the absence of one contact in cabin safety switch( S-005 in schematic).
As I told earlier I planned to power my safety relay from X716:6 which comes from S-005 first contact. It turns out that although the wiring harness goes exactly like in diagram the S-005 doesn’t have that contact at all unlike what the diagram shows. To get the voltage for my safety relay through that S-005 I had to use its second contact which feeds the other drc connector called X720 and it’s pin 3.
I decided to steal pin X720:3 and move it to X716:6 to get my circuit working.
As I’v now talked with other members here, turns out this absence of the contact is quite common.
Not the best solution, but it works: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

I also did run into weird problems with CMPS14 being inside the enclosure. the imu/compass would do weird things once in a while. The roll did work great all the time. In the end I decided to remove the cmps from pcb and use seperate arduino/cmp comdo mounted near the sky window, this seemed to get rid off any interference.

PRINTED PARTS
here is STL and OBJ files for every part that I printed for this project.: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
For PCB enclosure there is an endplate that has mount for DRC connector. Also a plate and clamp for mounting the enclosure to same place where original navcontroller would go(under the storage “cup” behid passenger seat.). The mount for enclosure is oriented to face forward, so CMPS can be mounted to the pcb(allthrought I ended up to use seperate arduino and cmps located near sky window to avoid interferences). There is also a little thing that I used to screw my pcb in place inside enclousure. I just glued this thing to enclosure and it has a hole for screw.
There is also a tablet holder that can be installed to armrest. It goes to the same place where genue intelliview would go and has inserts for M8 bolts and nuts. It has an odd sliding mount for easy tablet removal. I did use double sided tape to stick the slide plate to backside of tablet. This same slide connector fits also to genue intelliview holder, if someone happen to have a spare holder without intelliview :wink: Photo of the holder: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
I did use PETG for my prints, but I do not recomend this as my prints are deformed in heat. ABS or other more heat resistant material would be better in tablet holder. The enclosure holder is bearly strong enough with PETG.

I’ll edit more info later(part numbers etc.)… just don’t have more time today.
Here is a little first test drive video:Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

EDIT: Filled little more info. 16.6.2021
Added chematics, link to pin assembly tool and problems section 27.8.2021
Added printed parts and a CMPS problem 23.9.2021
Added tablet model and auto steer settings 2.10.2021

12 Likes

I find your installation very clean. I have a puma 230 and I am going to put Aog on it, but I am still in the phase of collecting information since the pcb has not reached me. I have the workshop manual in pdf in English, if you need any part I can share. I will ask you questions when doubts arise.

Great Project, i’m also nearly finished with my build. The Problem i had, i could not get a Connection to the Valves, even tho i checked the wire codes etc. In the end I just installed my own Wires. But everything else i could also get from the standard harness.
But i’m curious, where did you get these Plugs from the Original Nav Controller?

That most likely the cleanest / most tidy wiring job I have ever seen on here inside a AgOpen PCB enclosure :ok_hand:

2 Likes

Seems odd that the wiring for for valve wouldn’t work. For me those worked great.

The connector in the harness is normal drc connector. Lots of variations available , so it is tricky to find the right one.

The one I have in this enclouser is DRC22-40PA

Can be found at mouser: DRC22-40PA TE Connectivity / DEUTSCH | Mouser Finland

Also the one that is in the harness(should not be needed): DRC26-40SA TE Connectivity / DEUTSCH | Mouser Finland

And pis for those connectors:

1 Like

I think the “trick” is this: ignition must be on AND autosteer switch (the original one) must be activated.
Then you have connection through the relay system.
After that you also have to feed 12 V to the 3168 wire to activate “dump valve” (actually a 6/2 type valve) the other side of the “dump valve” already have GND.

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Yes correct connector, it is a xx type that fits all 4 types of the DRC26 both -40SA, - 40SB, - 40SC (the type I have , and - 40SD

I am starting with the agopengps in the puma case, I have tried to measure current in the harness that comes from the factory for autoguiding but I cannot detect voltage anywhere. I have followed the scheme of five farmers with the engine running and the button on the rear column turned on and the button on the armrest of the car also turned on and I can’t see that voltage is coming. Is it necessary to make a connection in another part of the tractor?

Well if your tractor has same connector (the 40 pin connector probably named x716) as five finnish farmer, then you only can find 12 v at pin 11 as he show here: https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AOebsSaCeG2PdgU&cid=A23BBF94342BFE2A&id=A23BBF94342BFE2A!2063&parId=A23BBF94342BFE2A!2055&o=OneUp
The rest is what you put on the connector from your PCB.
After you provide voltage for sensors you can get signal back.
You should probably check the fuse in your puma fuse box, your manual should tell which one supply power to pin 11

It is just like Larsvest told it. The pin 11 in X716 does have direct voltage when key is at ignition. This is regardless of the position of the switch at right rear.
That switch is controling the voltage in X716:6 can you find voltage from there?
Also can measure from X720:3(the smaller connector next to X716) that is also coming from the cab switch.

I’m having a little trouble as my desktop pc has been broken for a while so I can’t get my hands on to those chematics right now.

1 Like

At first, I was building your Schematic for the Pressure Sensor, but in the Version 5, you just can connect Signal from the Pressure Sensor to A0 on the Pcb. Then just activate the Pressure Sensor in the Menu.

Because I had the Problem, that when turning the Steering wheel, the count was only detected when steering in the opposite direction, stop turning the steering wheel or after a few seconds of turning.

But with the built-in Option with the V5 it works great, when set to 1 Bar.

1 Like

I’ve been away for a few days and today I checked what five
X720
farmers say. in 716 there are 12 volts between pin 1 and 11, 1 for ground and 11 for current. In pin 6 I do not find current with the button activated of the rear column, but there is current in 720 pin 3 (3187) when I turn on the autoguiding button of the rear column, with which I can take this pin to power the pcb and disconnect it when I turn off the column button. In 720 I only have 4 cables, according to the manual there should be 6.
X720 4

I think your autosteer switch S-005 is missing leg 1+2+3, just like the switch on our T6.
Wire 3185 is there, and goes from position 3 on S-005 to position 6 on X-716.
Note: this summer I will redo the power supply on the T6, and supply the PCB with 12V through a new thicker wire.
Reason for this : I believe the wires are too thin to carry the extra load we put on, by also feeding the “dump valve” 6/2 valve from X-716. The “dump valve” originally gets power from another ecu.

It seems to be really common that the column switch is missing the contacts for X716:6 as I also had that same thing. That’s why I removed the pin 3 from X720 and connected that to X716:6.

I don’t know why pin 6 of X716 has no current, since according to the manual’s diagram, when activating the switch on the rear column it would supply pin 3 on X720 and pin 6 on X716
.
BOTONO AUTO

Just remove the connector from the switch s-005 and you will see why. 3 missing pins.

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I assume that the pcb is powered by pin 11 of X716 (5200) and then uses pin 3 of X720 (3187) to activate the pcb relay and give current to all components when the auto button is turned on

That would require a change of the pcb, because the on off connection on pcb is just making a connection to GND.
Print the pictures from finnish farmers (or open them in separate windows), and you should be able to get how he did it. (one of them are about the “safety switch”)
He has a ? mark on that pin number, but in a later post he writes this: It seems to be really common that the column switch is missing the contacts for X716:6 as I also had that same thing. That’s why I removed the pin 3 from X720 and connected that to X716:6.

Meaning that the NEW and CHANGED pin 6 on X716 is driving his little pcb safety system.

But he is not clear or have a schematic, that show how his small PCB makes a GND on the SW IN (see one of the photos) Another photo show a red wire from his small PCB to PCB v4 C1 (or ON)

Notice here: today with AOG V5 ++ it is no longer needed with a special transistor circuit for the pressure sensor, Hansdampf writes how some posts up 4 days ago.

But YES 11 is powering the PCB V4

In my case pin 6 was also not working, but pin 3 (3187) did. At first i had a Relay installed, which closed the connection between the on-off pins. The main problem i had was, i always had to reconnect my Pcb after the Relay on the PCB got activated or deactivated.
My solution was, i took the 12V from Pin 3 and used them to Power the isolation valve on the Orbitrol. Now i don’t have to reconnect all the time, and when switching the Switch off, Agopengps cant steer.